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The minute repeater, the Mount Everest of watchmaking Repeater manufacture has long been more art than science, with a dash of alchemy, too, like the persistent legend that the gongs must be tempered in horse urine in order to obtain the best-quality sound. (Watchmakers have told me this was actually done in the past.) But lately, high-tech innovation and outside-the-box thinking have conspired to produce a new breed of repeaters. imitation watches Iconoclast watchmaker F. P. Journe tossed out centuries of conventional wisdom to create his extra-flat Journe Repetition Souverain, a minute repeater with a movement barely four millimeters thick. (That's thinner than most modern simple automatic watch movements.) He achieved this in part by eschewing traditional wire gongs, which are round in cross section, for triangular ones, which are flat in cross section, thus taking up less room inside the case. He also crafted the case out of stainless steel, a material far superior to gold and platinum in resonance and sound transmission. But it's still handwork that makes the Souverain a sonic beauty. "All the adjustments," says Journe, "have to be mastered one by one. Strength of the springs, hammers--there are many parts, and therefore many effects that have to be manually adjusted." That also means that production is necessarily low: Journe expects to create fewer than 20 Repetition Souverains per year, and only five Sonnerie Souverains. (Production of repeaters at other makers is equally low.) tag heuer watch replica A gong doesn't just ring a pure tone; it generates numerous overtones as well, and a badly made one will emit sounds that are not in tune with the dominant one. (In other words, the gong will sound out of tune with itself.) Gérald Genta claims its new Arena Metasonic Grande Sonnerie, made of a secret alloy whose lightness and rigidity supposedly outclass even steel, has the problem licked. Each watch is subjected to frequency spectrum analysis worthy of a physics lab--in fact, one at a French university developed the software with Genta--and the first time I heard it chime, its eerie clarity had the hypnotic quality Bram Stoker ascribed to the tingling, water-glass-like voices of Dracula's brides. Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Minute Repeater goes at the sound problem by affixing the gongs directly to the sapphire dial crystal, which resonates more efficiently than a case. Nonetheless, it's touch more than tech that makes a great repeater the subject of near-animist reverence. "Manual adjustment is what elevates the production of minute repeaters to an art form. It's what makes each timepiece unique," says the Patek Philippe master watchmaker. Even the ultra-high-tech Grand Complications Caliber 89 has to pass muster with an expert's golden ear before it's released. Machines made modern watches dependable, but it's the hand and ear that make the repeater inimitable. tag heuer Aquaracer replica Gérald Genta Octo Grande Sonnerie Tourbillion It rings the time in passing and on demand by playing the Westminster Quarters, the same melody rung out by London's Big Ben. $810,200. www.geraldgenta.com Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Minute Repeater with Jumping Hours A stunning Art Deco–style jumping hour repeater from the company that in 1892 put the repeater on the customer's wrist for the first time. $231,100 www.audemarspiguet.com Patek Philippe Ref. 5074R A perpetual calendar that adjusts for length of the month and for leap year, combined with a minute repeater. Patek Philippe chairman Philippe Stern still insists on hearing and approv-ing each Patek repeater personally. $518,500 (subject to change) tag heuer Carrera replica www.patek.com Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater One of the new breed of repeaters that mix high mech and high tech: The gongs are attached directly to the sapphire crystal for unparalleled bell-like clarity and volume. $142,000. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com IWC Portuguese Minute Repeater tag heuer Monaco replica For the connoisseur who likes big secrets: The sapphire caseback shows off the pocket-watch movement that gives this 43-millimeter watch its heft, but only the slide in the case band--and the ringing of its gongs--reveal its musical heart. $86,000. www.iwc.com F.P. Journe Repetition Souverain Both a hard-core traditionalist and a game-changing iconoclast, François-Paul Journe has done it again, creating the world's thinnest minute repeater. $165,400. www.fpjourne.com Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 In full court dress, this masterpiece combines a tourbillon, minute repeater, and perpetual calendar, and with its open dial, tag heuer Link replica wears its heart on its sleeve. $585,000.

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Author (swisswatchreplicas). Submitted on Sat, 5 Nov 2011 Time: 10:00 AM

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